Climbing Caving
Posted on Sunday, July 11th, 2010 at 12:15 pm
Mountain Climbing in the Crimea, Ukraine – the Region Offers a Specacular Scenery and Opportunity for the Rock Climber
Mountain climbing in Ukraine
In the Crimean peninsula, referred to as the Crimea, is a beautiful place in the summer months, the climate and the amount of sunny days makes this a perfect place for the climbers and nature lovers in general.
The Crimean peninsula occupies an area of around 26,000 sq.km.The nearest international airport is Kiev but a closer international airport is located in Simferopol. There are 30 curative lakes, 120 thermal medical springs, 10,000 historical and cultural monuments in the peninsula.
The Crimea (Krim) attracts mountain bikers, tourists, rock-climbers etc. 3 main ridges are found in the mountains of Crimea. The main one reaches a height of 1545 meters above sea level, the Internal, represented by separate rocky massifs which heights are ranging from 500 to 600 meters above the sea level, and the External with insignificant heights. The Southern coast is known for its mild climate. That is a narrow ground strip between the Main ridge and the Black sea.
There are at least 11 nice climbing sites with fully equipped routes grading from climbing grades 4 to 9a. The most popular sites are situated in the area of Great Yalta, from the Foros to Krasnokamenka. It is therefore convenient to stay in one of hotels in the city of Yalta and do one-day climbings at the various sites. Most of routes are about the climbing grade of 7a. The climate in Crimea allows climbing from April through October months.
Nikita (5 km. from Yalta) is one of the most popular mountain climbing site in Crimea. Thanks to Andrey Vedenmeyer who were the world champion in 1995 for his efforts making the routes in this site. There are about 80 routes grading from 5a to 9a (according to the American grades; 5.9 – 5.14). The majority of the routes are overhanging. Height of the site is 12-25 m. As it is a gorge, one can climb opposite cliffs all the day long. Some of the routes were made by climbers from France. Very often one can meet here World famous climbers in this site.
Nikita is situated nearby Yalta and the fabulous Nikitsky botanical gardens and it is near to the highway, so it is easy to access.
Red Stone (village Krasnokamenka). It takes 20-25 minutes by car to the east of Yalta to reach the climbing site. The nearest villages are Gurzuf and the cliff is situated in the village Krasnokamenka. There are about 100 routes grading from 5a-8c. Often these routes have prolonged problems. It is best to use a 60 meters rope on this site. Shops are rather well equipped and you can buy for every day utilities and food there. There is also a small street market here. Many world famous climbers make a trial in this site as well. The site has a nice scenic aspect as there is a lake at the east side of this rock. It is only 50 minutes walking from the Black sea to the site.
Simeyiz .This is a small resort village in about 15 km. from the city Yalta. There are 2 crags available for rock climbing here.
Koshka (Cat). The mountain limits the area of the village. There are bbout 30 routes grading from 5a-8a. Route height range from 13-27 meters. You will find slab at the beginning, overhangs (niches, cornices) in the above sections. Lots of juniper trees are found at the foot. A 4-pitch route with crux up to 6c+ leading on the top.
Krylo Lebedya (Swan’s wing). 5 minutes on foot from Koshka and you will find more than 30 routes grading from 6a-8a. Route height range from 20-30 meters. The cliff is on the beach. As there are three sectors differently directed, it is possible to climb almost all the day long.
Parus (near vill. Foros). The climbing site Parus is situated to the about 2 km west from Foros, which is around 50 km from Yalta, 15 minutes walking up from the highway going from Sevastopol to Yalta. The cliff looks like a “sail in the ocean of stones”. There are about 30 routes grading from 6b-7c. Near to Chelebi, that is a big wall site. There are some multi-pitch routes (4 pitches) leading to the top (crux up to grade 6c+). This is the real “place of the power”.
Bakhchisarai. There are about 100 bolted rock climbing routes grading from 5A up to 7C in 5 different sectors. And there are up to 20 routes in each sector within 15-25 minutes walking distance between them. Route height is ranging from 8 to 23 m. Lime rocks here are quite young, often overhanging, and resemble much of indoor climbing walls.
Because of the overhangs it is possible to climb even if it rains. The rocks here are not sharp, so it allows holding hands in good condition for other sites.
It is hot here in summer even in the shade at noon. That is why one climbs here in the morning or afternoon. Near to the site there are several shops, a small street market and cafes. One can taste here Tatars and Uzbek cuisine in one of the restaurants. Bakhchisarai is a town well known for its sightseeing: Khans’ Palace, Cave monastery and Cave town. So there is a chance to combine the climbing with some sightseeing as well.
Uarch-Kaya. This is a site, situated between Foros and Simeiz at about 2 km from the highway between Yalta and Sevastopol. The site is near the old road between Yalta and Sevastopol. The location is about 45 km. from Yalta. Uarch-Kaya is a site for rock climbing and multi-pitch climbing. All the routes are well equipped grading from 6a to 8c+. The total number of routes are more than 50.
Sudak. This site is situated in town of Sudak, just opposite the famous Genoese fortress. One can try about 15 routes grading from 6b to 7c. It is a very small site, actually just a crag. Because of rather dry climate in South-East part of Crimea in summer in the Sudak is very hot. Best time for climbing is from September to June.
The Southern coast of Crimean peninsula from cape Aiya, situated near the city called Sevastopol to moutain Ai-Petri raising behind the city of Yalta offers opportunities for multi-pitch climbing. There are also sites found between the cities Alushta and Yalta, and between the cities Simferopol and Alushta and near the city Sudak. Most of routes are not well equipped, so for the ascent one should bring all the gear needed for mountain climbing, such as friends, stoppers, wall nuts, and occationally some skyhooks and so on. There can be found some fully equipped multi-pitch routes with crux grading from 5a to 7b. They imply the use of quickdraws only. All the multi-pitch routes are in limestone.
Sites to visit would be Chelebi, Foros, Uarch-Kaya, Marcheka (El-Cap of Crimea), Shan-Kaya, Ai-Petri, Paragilmen, Angarka, and Sokol (Falcon).
About the Author
Stig-Arne Kristoffersen
A Globetrotter
www.lulu.com/stig
www.travate.com
www.real-bahrain.com
Rock Climbing, Caving and Community in Chiang Mai
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